May 19

 

Monday, May 19^th

We started off our day in Hue, Vietnam. This morning, we were lucky enough to have a great breakfast with lots of fresh fruits, pastries, and we were all excited to see a chocolate covered donut. As we all arrived in the lobby, Eli Kuehn was serenading us with his piano playing.

Bright and early, at 7AM, we took off from our hotel to go to the coffee plantation, this was about two hours northwest of Hue at Khe Sanh. This was the site of one of the major battles during the Vietnam war, but has now been developed into coffee farms.  Once we arrived at the plantation, we took a short walk to see how the coffee plants grow. We learned that this plantation grows multiple types of coffee; Arabica, Liberica, Robusta.

Immature coffee beans

The plants themselves can live for 25-30 years, one interesting thing is that although the trees can reach 30 years old- they stay very short. The shorter trees make harvest much easier, as harvest is completed by hand. One thing that was talked about is how recently the value of coffee has been very high. With Vietnam being the number two exporter of coffee in the world, this has been great for coffee growers and processors. One tree produces around $50/year of coffee beans- the seed for a coffee tree costs anywhere from $5.00-$6.00 per kilogram. Our tour guide, Tony, said that it was incredibly expensive.

We also had the opportunity to tour the processing mill for the coffee beans. We all thought the process looked fairly similar to a U.S. feed mill. The process was simple, wash the beans, dry them in a rotating oven; after drying they took the beans out of the hulls and roasted the beans. They process around 3 tons of beans per day in this facility. This facility also burns the hulls to use as power.

Another type of coffee we learned about was Weasel coffee. The weasel is fed the best coffee fruits on the tree. They are then held in a room for 2-3 days and their waste is then collected. The waste is then dried and made into coffee, it’s extremely expensive because of the time and how labor intensive it is. It varies from $300-$1,000 per kg. Usually, $20 per cup of coffee.

We got the chance to try the coffee they make at the plantation; the coffee was very smooth and had a fresh flavor. They used a syphon coffee maker which was new for us to see. We thanked the farmers and the family and started driving south towards Da Nang for lunch. We drove about an hour south again and stopped for a good lunch, we were excited to have some french fries along with our traditional Vietnamese family style meal. The rest of our day was relaxed continuing South to Da Nang, most of us read books or chatted for the bus ride.

We ended our night eating supper at a “hip” restaurant according to tour guide Tony. We had a mango seafood salad, seafood wontons, pork skewers, seafood spring rolls, pork spring rolls, and some good fried rice! We ended our meal with fresh pineapple and watermelon. We are now back at our hotel preparing for another busy day tomorrow!

May 18

 Today was our last day in Hanoi, and we spent it exploring the city. Like most other days it was hot and humid. Some of us are jealous of the cooler weather back home. It was 90 degrees with a humidity of 75-85%. So, keep in mind, we are all dripping with sweat throughout our excursions.

Hoa Lo prison - the Hanoi Hilton

 First, we went to Hanoi Hilton, a prison built by the French in 1896. It was first a pottery village that the French overtook with minimal compensation to the people. Upon entering  the prison, we were all given headphones to listen to the history and stories about various Vietnamese and American prisoners. This was one of Indochina’s strongest-built prisons. It held Vietnamese revolutionaries, including women and children. There were exhibits showing sleeping, eating, and lavatory conditions. The audio explained some of their punishment tactics including, solitary confinement, guillotine, a drum, electric shock, and other gruesome methods. We also learned that some Vietnamese political figures escaped by making a copy of the guard’s key to get out of their cells. Then they went to the bathroom area to use acid smuggled in by their family members to break down the bars in the sewer. Of those that attempted, only 5 escaped. By 1964, the prison was used to hold American soldiers, mostly pilots, that were shot down from their aircrafts. During this time, it was known as Heartbreak Prison. From the sounds of it, the American soldiers were treated fairly. They were given time to work out in the mornings, better food, and time to celebrate holidays. It was interesting to learn about the Vietnamese perspective of the Vietnamese War (for them, the American War). By 1994 the prison was no longer in use.

Hanoi Hilton exhibits

Street meat market

Next, we headed to the wet market. Lots of unique smells and sights here. According to Tony, our tour guide, by the end of the day the markets are cleared out because the Vietnamese go to the market daily to purchase fresh food for their meals. This includes restaurants in the area. We were fully immersed in the Vietnamese culture. The market was along the streets of Hanoi, with hundreds of shops selling various foods and produce. Many had awnings, and underneath they chopped raw meats, sliced open fruits, shucked corn, and left them on the tables without air conditioning or refrigeration for people to buy. There were live fish, eels, ducks, chicken, shrimp, and snails. Lots of vibrant fruits and vegetables as well. Many we didn’t recognize, but some included jackfruit, mangoes, apple, durian, lychee, lime, watermelon, dragon fruit, okra, kohlrabi, lettuce, cucumbers, peppers, and onions. Some of the more interesting foods we saw were cow tongue and sink worms.

Noodles on the street

Then we walked around the souvenir shops and food-truck style restaurants. Around lunchtime, we tried Banh Mi, which is a sandwich with toasted bread, lettuce, pork, carrots, and a mayo based sweet sauce. Most people enjoyed our first taste of street food, most likely because it was the first sandwich we’ve had on the trip. Then we walked down the street to a different food shop. As we waited for the second portion of our meal, Drew unfortunately toppled over and fell as he broke the tiny plastic stool he was sitting on. As a part of their culture, small stools are commonly used on streets for restaurant seating. Shortly after, we got to try pho bowls. The noodles were topped with peanuts, sprouts, carrots, mangoes, cilantro, mango, lime juice, and vinegar. We believe most people were pleasantly surprised by how good it tasted. After that, we walked to a juice bar, where we tried sugar cane juice. It was very refreshing because it was nice and cold on this hot, muggy day. 

Egg coffee

The last drink we tried was the famous egg coffee. It is very popular in Vietnam and was invented in 1946. The coffee is topped with a mix of sugar, condensed milk, cinnamon, whipped egg yolks, and brandy wine. There were mixed reviews. It was sweet for coffee, but those who don’t like coffee regularly did not really like it. However, those who enjoy coffee liked it. After eating, we had some free time. Some chose to walk around and shop, while others chose to get manicures, pedicures, or massages. Lastly, we watched a water puppet show. It encompassed historic folklore of Vietnam with many short skits. It was focused on their culture and the 4 holy animals- the phoenix, tortoise, dragon, and unicorn. Some stories were about farmers, children playing in the water, emperors, and cultural dances. It lasted about an hour.  This was our last adventure in Hanoi before flying to Hue.

Water puppets